Financier Pâtisserie

I was still licking my lips over a lunch special at Ise (hearty Japanese winter food: fried scallops accompanied by a dollop of hot mustard, poached tilefish with yam paste, rice balls with fermented soybeans and sashimi garnished with fresh ginger) when I realized that I hadn’t yet bought pastries for Christmas morning. I’d heard that a French pastry shop had opened up two weeks ago nearby, and set about finding it at once.

Everything about Financier Pâtisserie screams “butter”; the light yellow walls, the aroma of baking that wafts through the room and the taste of the madeleines. The madeleines are so fresh that you can taste the single ingredients in turn: rich butter, then eggs, then sugar. A row of buttery, flaky pastries (pains au chocolat, cherry turnovers, almond croissants) sits atop a glass display. If you can tear your eyes away from the croissants, you will notice that the display is divided into two sections. To the right, there are charming bûches de Noel decorated with snowmen. On the left, there is a beautiful assortment of tarts, éclairs and mousses. I was torn between the pear chocolate mousse and the baba au rhum. My internal argument grew more heated until I noticed the chocolate chestnut tart topped with a marshmallow, which promptly found its way onto my shopping list. And what of the Christmas pastries? I think we’ll be enjoying our egg-brushed, plump apple turnovers very much!

Financier Pâtisserie, 62 Stone St., (212) 344-5600.

Daniel - Divine!

I don't even know where to begin. All memories of my dinner at Daniel are coalescing into a single swoon of pleasure. With great effort, I will try to pinpoint the individual stimuli, among them: a special appetizer of creamy risotto with freshly shaved white truffle, a healthy mound of pristine tuna tartare topped with a layer of sevruga and surrounded by radish "petals", a warm tarragon flan accompanying a potato-crusted Arctic char ...wine-braised short ribs so tender that a fork cut right through them... and finally, a mocha Christmas bûche, a molten chocolate soufflé with intensely nutty pistachio ice cream, and petits fours which included holly-decorated chocolates made on the premises. But wait; I must not forget the fresh bread that threatened to spoil my appetite: garlic focaccia, sweet Christmas bread with raisins and powdered sugar, crusty black olive rolls and much more. If you haven't yet been to Daniel, it is time for you to experience one of the places that makes New York City great.

Daniel: 60 East 65th St., (212) 288-0033.

'Tis The Season!

One way to get yourself into the holiday spirit is to drive around Bensonhurst after dark. Entire blocks shine with red and green lights; you will be awestruck by the dazzling array of elaborately festooned houses.

You may also be awestruck by the giant cannoli that adorns the window of Dolce Italia, Ltd. I forgot to ask if it were real, because just then the owner brought out a plate of buttery almond cookies straight out of the oven. He set it down right next to me and my companions, nodding his head at us. I ordered a bag full of sugar-dusted pignoli cookies, cookies rolled in sesame seeds and butter half-moons; when I opened the bag, I saw that a heap of the fresh butter cookies had been emptied into it.

Needless to say, I spoiled my appetite for Romano's. To their credit, the folks at this Bensonhurst legend (est. 1935) did their best to revive my sagging appetite with lemony, egg-battered sole francese and linguini with white clam sauce. The latter must have contained a head of garlic!

Dolce Italia, Ltd.: 7105 13th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 837-2464. Romano Restaurant: 7117 13th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 232-5226.

This Just In...

Are you agonizing over your weekend plans? If you're free this Saturday, why don't you join the folks at Foodevents.com for a culinary tour of Arthur Avenue in the Bronx?

The foodies will visit an artisan of fresh pasta, a maker of homemade mozzarella cheese, and some bakeries with hot semolina breads. The extravaganza will end with an Italian wine tasting. For more information, please call (917) 916-2988 or E-mail info@foodevents.com. Buon appetito!

Thai Tea Time (Closed as of 3/1/03)

The restaurant god has not yet blessed Kensington. (For those of you unfamiliar with the outer boroughs, Kensington is a small neighborhood in Brooklyn that abuts Windsor Terrace.) Church Avenue, the main drag, is a row of groceries with week-old produce.

But if you venture onto McDonald Avenue, you will find a small storefront that is serving up the best food in the neighborhood! Thai Tea Time is owned by Patrick, a Laotian with family in Thailand, and Lynn, a denizen of Kensington. Together they will educate you on the origin of bubble tea (Thailand exported tapioca to Taiwan) while serving it up in such exotic flavors as lychee, passionfruit and kumquat. There are Thai honeydew milkshakes and iced coffee drinks made with sweetened condensed milk.

If you need something more substantial than a beverage, try the cilantro-laden tom yum, a spicy lemongrass soup with your choice of chicken or shrimp. If you like pad thai, you will find plenty of tasty crushed peanuts in Thai Tea Time's version. My pad see-ew was a huge mound of wide rice noodles sautéed with egg, gailan (baby Chinese broccoli) and lots of shrimp. Patrick warned me that gailan was spicy. "Bring on the spice," I urged, and he obliged by presenting me with some whole green chilies to munch on.

While I enjoyed the warm banana custard topped with coconut, I noticed that there was a small selection of Thai groceries available, including grass jelly, do-it-yourself Thai tea powder, and pickled eggplant. But I think I will leave my Thai cooking to the experts.

Thai Tea Time: 359 McDonald Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 436-5344. Delivery available.

Mr. Breakfast

If breakfast is your passion, you may have found your soul mate right here.

Les Halles

A huge snowstorm is forecasted for tomorrow. Since I may stay inside all day, I feel justified in having eaten two days' worth of food this evening.

My dining companion wanted to go to Les Halles because of his special fondness for French fries. Although he will eat anything from McDonald's shoestrings to tater tots, he especially appreciates the crispy, greaseless numbers at Les Halles. Tonight he mixed together a great portion of ketchup and Dijon mustard into which he happily dipped an entire plate of fries.

We began our meals with big tureens of onion soup topped with melted gruyere, and escargots appropriately swimming in garlic butter. I sopped up every last drop of the butter with hunks of crusty baguette.

The main course was a very difficult choice. Les Halles offers a selection of traditional French entrées such as cassoulet and choucroute, as well as a long menu of grilled Black Angus meats including hanger steak with shallot sauce, beef tenderloin, and prime rib. The entrance of the restaurant sports a glass display of rillettes, frankfurters, pâtés, blood sausage, and other meats. My companion ordered a 14-oz. New York sirloin with béarnaise sauce, mesclun greens and fries. I wanted something lighter and enjoyed my simple preparation of dourade. The firm-fleshed fish was grilled with olive oil and salt and served with grilled zucchini. (I was soon to sabotage the lightness of my meal with a great amount of well-salted French fries.)

After a couple glasses of Pinot Noir Rion and Sancerre Blanc, any remaining inhibitions we may have had against ordering dessert soon disappeared. We decided against the profiteroles and crème brûlée in favor of a Valrhona chocolate mousse and a warm banana chocolate tart in vanilla sauce. At this point, the lights had dimmed so much that I could not see exactly how many layers there were in the tart. Judging from taste alone, I gather that there were three: a dense chocolate bottom, a layer of bananas and a sweet dark chocolate ganache. I also finished off the dollop of whipped cream.

Now I'm ready for the snow!

Les Halles: 411 Park Avenue South. (212) 679-4111.

Italian Reverie

I cannot stop thinking about Italian pastries. One of our Thanksgiving guests was a dyed-in-the-wool Bensonhurster who reminisced about her mother's homemade sfingi and zeppole.

As of today, the below-mentioned Blue Apron Foods is offering baked goods from Bensonhurst's own Royal Crown Bakery. Try the rolls stuffed with broccoli rabe, then pick up a package of my favorite commercial biscotti, DiCamillo Biscotti Di Prato. I love to dunk these crunchy, almond-studded cookies in my espresso.

The mailman just arrived, delivering my copy of Mangia! The Best Italian Food In New York City! I think I will take a moment to riffle through the pages now.

Chocosphere (Part 2)

I have it on authority that there will be some exciting new offerings on Chocosphere very shortly. The online chocolate store is in the process of adding three new Dolfin products, including a dark chocolate bar with aniseed and dark squares with lemon. Also, they'll be adding some new Côte d'Or and another "surprise" this week if all goes well at Customs! Keep an eye on their Website this week.

Blue Apron Foods - Say Cheese!

Park Slope finally has its own version of Tuller! I used to envy the denizens of Cobble Hill, but no longer; one visit to this friendly "purveyor of cheese, charcuterie, fine foods" made my day.

Only open since Tuesday, Blue Apron is already filled with smiling patrons. They are buying Amy's Valrhona Oreos, focaccia from the Sullivan Street Bakery, Jacques Torres cocoa and chocolates, Bindi frozen desserts, East Hampton pumpkin tea bread, and much more. What did I come away with? Let's see...a Buonissima tomato mozzarella handmade pizza, Café La Semeuse espresso beans, Vergers d'Aliénor whole dried apricots, Divina kalamata olive tapenade, Vermont Butter & Cheese Company crème fraîche, and finally, raw milk blue cheese and artisanal bufala mozzarella. Say cheese, indeed!

Blue Apron Foods: 814 Union St., Brooklyn. (718) 230-3180.

Ulrika's (Closed, But Still Catering)

I am still warmed by the mug of glögg I imbibed this evening. The mulled red wine, redolent of cardamom and cinnamon, was served with the traditional raisins and almonds. I will try to rouse myself from my reverie in order to describe the rest of the meal.

A friend once opined that people come to New York in order to feel as though they were somewhere else. Ulrika's, a restaurant featuring Swedish and Swedish-influenced cuisine, definitely transported me to another world. It was a friend's birthday, so we decided to begin our celebration with a round of orange peach ginger aquavit. A basket of crispbreads then arrived, as well as a couple of flowerpots stuffed with fresh soft loaves of bread. Afterwards, we inhaled complementary cups of foamy shrimp bisque with sun-dried tomato.

Plates of gravlax were appearing at every table, and we were soon to find out why. The gravlax appetizer was an absolute delight; thick slices of salmon were highlighted with dill, black peppercorns and sweet mustard. For me, this appetizer was the star of the evening. Although I enjoyed my poached cod in clarified butter with chopped egg, I would have preferred more tasty grated horseradish. My companions cleared their plates of roasted duck with truffled mashed potatoes (warning: truffled potatoes are extremely addictive), and an entrée of beef tenderloin with munk (fried donuts of onion stuffing), slabs of grilled bacon, and foie gras. (The latter dish is not for the faint of stomach!)

Then it was time for light soufflés with cloudberry jam, and plättar, thin eggy crepes with blueberries and cream. I don't know whose idea it was to order the glögg, but I am now becoming very sleepy and must retire to bed.

Ulrika's: 115 East 60th St. (212) 355-7069.

Shimon's and Max & Mina's

I love randomly stumbling upon local legends. On a recent Sunday afternoon, there wasn't an empty seat in Shimon's. This kosher pizzeria opened in 1968 and features many non-pizza items on its dairy menu, including salmon croquettes and vegetarian liver! My favorite selections were a flaky hot bureka (savory filo triangle) filled with farmer cheese, and fat, crisp potato pancakes with plenty of sour cream. Greek salad was tasty although lacking in cucumbers, pizza was quite sauce-laden, and a whitefish salad with "everything" arrived covered with tasty tahini and sauerkraut. But it was the bureka which stuck in my mind... next time, I will order one filled with eggplant.

Do you care for your ice cream flavored with lox? Spicy hummus? Or is garlic more your preference? Right next door to Shimon's is a newer legend, the truly unusual Max & Mina's Homemade Ice Cream and Ices. Before you shudder in horror, let me assure you that the magenta horseradish ice cream offers a pleasant kick, and more conventional flavors are also superb. Chocolate ice cream is like a frozen rich chocolate pudding, and freshly brewed coffee ice cream is full of real java flavor. Max & Mina's will please all palates!

Shimon's: 71-24 Main St., Flushing. (718) 793-1491. Max & Mina's: 71-26 Main St., Flushing. (718) 793-8629.

The Chocolate Show

As you approach West 18th St., you may notice the change in demeanor of those around you. Gone are the agitated expressions typical of New Yorkers; instead, you will see the blissed-out grins of chocolate lovers as they dreamily reach into paper bags full of truffles. The euphoria will reach a critical mass as you step onto the red carpet outside the Metropolitan Pavilion, home of the 5th Annual Chocolate Show, New York 2002.

I can barely begin to describe the plethora of delights that await you. There is chocolate to drink (MarieBelle Aztec Hot Chocolate with cinnamon, ancho chile, nutmeg and chipotle), Vermeer Dutch Chocolate Cream Liqueur made with vodka, cream and Dutch chocolate, Cocio chocolate milk from Denmark, and Valrhona hot chocolate. There is chocolate to wear, to admire as fine art, and to bathe in. There are even cocoa butter massages and chocolate psychic readings by Magda the Parisian Psychic. But most importantly, there is chocolate to eat.

I arrived in fine spirits, having just visited Ceci-Cela Pâtisserie (55 Spring St., 212-274-9179). After admiring the sculptures of the Côte d'Ivoire (the world's largest supplier of cocoa beans), I sampled the Caoba (41%) milk chocolate of Chocolates El Rey.

I then admired the cinnamon ginger and almond praline chocolate bars at Bouvier Chocolatier. Philippe Bouvier patiently explained his technique for making ganache as I made my selection. Next, the multi-colored pastel marshmallows of Chez Boissier caught my eye. These handmade marshmallows are almost too beautiful to eat (but I think I'll find a way).

Four years ago, Fritz Knipschildt founded the innovative Knipschildt Chocolatier. Fritz began making chocolates at the age of twelve, trained at a Danish culinary academy for several years, and now concocts such truffles as tangerine red chili (I bought three), lavender caramel, and apple rosemary. I could not leave without a box of fifteen truffles. His exhibit is highly recommended!

At the Institute of Culinary Education, I sampled the buttery "Supernatural Brownies" and made sure to get a copy of the recipe. And my favorite chocolatier, Michel Cluizel, offered samples of three new chocolates that will soon be available, each of them more delicious than the last.

There are many more highlights at this wonderful event; discover your own on Saturday and Sunday!

The Chocolate Show: 125 West 18th St. Saturday 10-8, Sunday 10-6. $15.

Yes, You Can Eat Well Downtown!

It has often been noted that there is a paucity of dining options in the Wall Street area. However, a few bright spots exist among the dubious delis and unrefrigerated salad bars.

At $7 a plate, the Sophie’s lunch special is one of the best bargains in town. (If you happen to venture in after 12 p.m., you will find that the entire population of New York has already discovered this. Therefore, I recommend arriving at 11:45.) Your choice of meat (fried pork chops, breaded chicken cutlet, beef stew, fried fish, shrimp in garlic sauce, etc.) arrives on a giant bed of buttered rice, garnished with boiled yucca and spicy onion salad. As if that weren’t enough, you are also blessed with a separate bowl of soupy beans (pinto or black). I am addicted to the small containers of green herb sauce at the counter.

Another tasty option that is easy on the wallet is Tokyo Lunch. This lunch counter is tiny; don't be surprised if you find yourself accidentally drinking from your neighbor's cup. But without spending more than $6-$7, you can enjoy Japanese dishes such as salmon teriyaki and tempura soba. Afterwards, for old-fashioned boardwalk-style candy, go over to Evelyn’s and ask for a quarter-pound bag of chocolate raspberry marshmallows.

My favorite place to eat lunch is the authentic and delicious Ise, which now has a fancy new location on Pine Street after a temporary stint in the basement of Zeytuna’s. Ise’s sushi is fantastically fresh, and there are several daily lunch specials. My recent lunches there have included a glistening chirashi-zushi topped with salmon roe, hokke, a sea-bass like fish from Hokkaido, accompanied by diced mackerel sashimi and assorted root vegetables, and grilled eel with the requisite sansho pepper. Oishii!

For the best coffee downtown, I recommend the Manon Café, the Europhile java bar located at the Leonidas Chocolate Store. Each coffee beverage comes with a free chocolate (you can choose from white, milk or dark). I am usually tempted to buy extras.

(To learn about how you can stimulate the growth of the downtown economy as well as your girth, visit Downtown for Dinner $20.02.)

Sophie's: Pearl St. location now closed: new location: 96 Chambers St., (212) 608-9900. Tokyo Lunch: 10 John St. (212) 608-1394. Evelyn's Chocolates: 4 John St. (212) 267-6178. Ise Japanese Restaurant: 56 Pine St. (212) 785-1600. Café Manon: 3 Hanover Square. 1-800-900-CHOC.

Olives and Honey

Does the chilly weather make you long for summer? Don't despair; Athens-born George Bourozikas has taken it upon himself to brighten up your day with the Mediterranean sun. Bourozikas, the founder of Olives and Honey, LLC, has recently begun importing two very special olive oils from Greece. Both are organic, and each one has a very distinct flavor. Terra Eolica, produced in Lesvos, is buttery and mild – perfect for pouring over just about anything! Toplou comes from the island of Crete, which enjoys more than 3,000 hours of sunlight a year. The resulting oil is strong and fruity; Bourozikas characterized its taste as "explosive".

Today, the genial Bourozikas could be seen at Sahadi's offering samples of his luscious oils. Charlie Sahadi baked a loaf of French bread for the occasion; we dipped in with abandon. Bourozikas talked of his enthusiasm for a Mediterranean thyme honey that he plans to import, and we all left feeling a bit sunnier.

Olives and Honey, LLC: (212) 460-8332, george@olivesandhoney.com. Sahadi's: 187 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 624-4550.

Basta Pasta

It must be true that carbohydrates are addictive, because shortly after dining at Elio's, I found myself at Basta Pasta. Basta Pasta offers Italian cuisine with a Japanese flair; its chef was born in Tokyo.

My friend and I began with the seared tuna appetizer, a slab of tender, sushi-grade tuna perked up with diced scallions, zesty wasabi mayonnaise and barely dressed arugula. After inhaling this in about 30 seconds, we moved on to the grilled squid appetizer, a salad of white beans, tomatoes and squid in a ginger balsamic vinaigrette.

Although the menu listed many intriguing second courses (example: chargrilled marinated chicken breast with shishito peppers), we suffered from the aforementioned carb addiction and ordered pasta. My spaghetti with tobiko (flying fish roe) and shiso (Japanese basil) arrived in a sauce of butter, clam juice and sea salt. Crunchy pearls of roe coated the pasta, and the shiso leaves provided an astringent foil to the richness of the dish. A classic spaghetti with mozzarella, basil and tomatoes was given a new twist with the addition of shiitake mushrooms.

We somehow found room in our bellies for dessert, and agonized over the decision between almond flan and Earl Grey gelato. The dessert special, a rum-soaked sweet brioche with strawberry preserves and whipped cream, resolved our dilemma.

This carb infusion should temporarily hold us over...

Basta Pasta: 37 W. 17th St. (212) 366-0888.

Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm

The apple harvest is over, but you can still enjoy its fruits at this charming Yorktown Heights orchard. The two large sheds on the premises house Tricia’s Treats and the Farm Market. At Tricia’s, you can feast on apple strudel and drink hot cider. Also of note are the fresh cider doughnuts and steaming hot, flaky-crusted apple pies.

If you prefer to make your own apple concoctions, you can go over to the Farm Market, which sells ten different varieties of apples. The spacious shelves of the Market are also laden with apple butter and apple cider.

The trees that line the Taconic Parkway are in full fall splendor. A nature-lover in my car informed me that the amount of sugar in the leaves controls the vibrancy of the colors. (I certainly feel more vibrant with sugar in my veins as well.)

Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm: 1335 White Hill Road, Yorktown Heights. (914) 245-5111.

“Breaking News” at Elio’s

Although Peter Jennings was sitting at a nearby table, the current event I found most important was the pasta special of the evening: homemade egg fettucini topped with slivers of freshly shaved white truffles. The truffles’ woodsy flavor added a hint of mystery to the luxuriant buttery tumble of pasta. Our waiter, Evaristo, proudly maintained that the butter and truffles were the only seasonings in the dish. “It’s a much different taste than truffle-infused olive oil,” he said. I nodded in agreement, my mouth full of pasta.

If the fettucini with white truffles was a front-page event, the penne with cauliflower merited at least a Page Six mention. Chewy pasta tubes were accented with flecks of anchovy paste and mixed with bread crumbs, cauliflower, parsley and deep green olive oil.

All in all, a newsworthy evening!

Elio’s: 1621 2nd Ave. (212) 772-2242.

Cheese and Crackers

This cold, rainy weather we've been having gives me the munchies. Today I satisfied my cravings with a sophisticated version of cheese and crackers.

I knew that the eminent Agata and Valentina would offer a wonderful selection of cheese, and there was an exciting new arrival: Le Peilloute Goat's Milk Brie from Fromager D'Affinois. I paired the Brie with Pane Croccante (rustic, irregularly-shaped crackers seasoned with basil, garlic and red onion). Now I am quite prepared for a rainy day. You will understand if I don't answer the phone.

(But perhaps you are an NYU student who studies on cold rainy days. I imagine that you rarely venture above 14th St., and that you can't study on an empty stomach! If so, stop by Bites, the tiny take-out at the corner of Bleecker and Lafayette. Tell the friendly gent that you crave a melted Nutella ciabatta snack ($3), walk away happy, and ace those exams.)

Agata and Valentina: 1505 1st Ave. (212) 452-0690.

La Maison Du Chocolat

Some people have friends in high places; I have friends in decadent places. In a happy coincidence, one of them works at La Maison du Chocolat. So, I decided to conclude a recent sweets expedition with a visit to this chocolate salon.

My earlier discoveries of the day were Deep Mountain pure Vermont maple candy (flavors: maple, ginger, coconut, pecan, hot pepper and blueberry) at the Rockefeller Center Greenmarket, and the latest seasonal additions at the below-mentioned Minamoto Kitchoan - kabocha manju (sweet squash cookie) and matcha kintsuba, or fudge flavored with the strong green tea that usually accompanies Japanese sweets.

Although my favorite chocolate bar in the entire world is London's Max Brenner's Chocolate Bar, I found plenty to be delighted about at La Maison Du Chocolat. One side of the shop is reserved for all manner of truffles with enticing names (among them, "Rigoletto", a caramelized buttermilk truffle which truly had me singing an aria). The other side features chocolate pastries and monster-sized "bouchées" (chocolates which are practically as large as a sandwich). My giant "Rocher" praline was a study in contrasting textures: crunchy almonds, silky chocolate coating and a chunky rich chocolate center. I also sampled a wonderfully dense pistachio marzipan bouchée.

I added a 35% cacao "Mérida" (see, those enticing names again) bar to my collection of goodies, and my friend hooked me up with a bag of "samples". Unfortunately, they are now depleted, which means that I must return very soon. Maybe I will try the milk ganache flavored with mirabelle plum, or the mendiants: little treasures of orange and lemon zest, roasted almonds and hazelnuts, and of course, chocolate. Or perhaps I will sign up for a two-hour tasting session with Robert Linxe, the creator of La Maison. (If you are interested in such an extravagance, call (212) 265-9404.)

La Maison Du Chocolat: 30 Rockefeller Center. (212) 265-9404.

Bio-Dynamic Pork

For those of you New Yorkers who live high on the hog, grassfed bio-dynamic pork is now available. The hogs are raised naturally without hormones or antibiotics. The high-quality meat is sold at a price far less than at the Union Square market. Purchase options include traditional salty hams, German sausages, smoked sliced bacon, and maple sausage links. For more information, E-mail Sophia.

The Best Of...

This is the time of year that New York's venerable weeklies reveal their "Best Of" lists. The Village Voice, New York Press and Citysearch dispense much good advice, and listed below is Salli's rather short contribution of superlatives. In some cases, these are not food recommendations, but curiosities.

Best Way to Happily Surprise a Friend
Dessert Delivery (they'll deliver the same day if you call before 3:00 p.m.)
360 E 55th St. (212) 838-5411.

Most Daunting Menu
Sweet-n-Tart Café
136-11 38th Ave., Flushing. (718) 661-3380.

Best Place to Stuff Oneself with Antipasti
Il Mulino (check out those giant stalagmites of Parmigiano)
86 W. 3rd St. (212) 673-3783.

Most Enthusiastic Proponent of Pavé d'Affinois, an Extraordinarily Buttery Soft Cheese
The Cashier at Ninth Avenue Cheese Markets
615 9th Ave. (212) 397-4700.

Most Artistic Meal Presentation
Kai
822 Madison Ave., (212) 988-7277.

Biggest Statue of the Buddha
Tao
42 E. 58th St. (212) 888-2288.

Tastiest Frites
B. Frites (CLOSED, oh well)
1657 Broadway. (212) 767-0858.

Friendliest Sushi Bar
Japonica (they remember your name and offer extra bowls of rice)
100 University Place. (212) 243-7752.

Most Mismatched Chairs
Caffé Rafaella (This location has closed)
134 7th Ave. South. (212) 929-7247.

Most Satisfying Lunch Splurge
Caviarteria (try the "pastrami" salmon) (CLOSED; looking for new location per 6/25/08 phone call)
502 Park Avenue., (212) 759-7410.

Best Place to Watch Gorgeous Yuppies
Park Avalon (CLOSED)
225 Park Ave. South. (212) 533-2500.

Best Fried Oysters
Pearl Oyster Bar
18 Cornelia St. (212) 691-8211.

Most Bizarre Schedule
Ferdinando's Focacceria Restaurant
151 Union St., Brooklyn. (718) 855-1545.

Best Music During Sunday Brunch
Coffee Shop (Brazilian jazz)
29 Union Sq. West. (212) 243-7969.

Most Delicious After-Dinner Biscotti
De Grezia
231 E. 50th St. (212) 750-5353

Greatest Amount of Icing Flowers on a Cupcake
Cupcake Café
522 9th Ave. (212) 465-1530.

Best Place to Celebrate Your Hungarian Grandma's 85th Birthday
Caterina's
316 East 53rd St., (212) 355-5360.

Most Chivalrous Service
Gramercy Tavern (written about below; spectacular food, too!)
42 E. 20th St. (212) 477-0777.

Salli's Favorite Macrobiotic Restaurant
Ozu (try the raspberry tofu cheesecake)
566 Amsterdam Ave. (212) 787-8316.

Best French Onion Soup
La Bonne Soupe
48 West 55th St. (212) 586-7650.

That's all, folks! All this typing is making me hungry!

Beyond Teriyaki

Recently, a dear friend of mine spoke of her fondness for Japanese food. "I love chicken teriyaki, beef teriyaki," she maintained. But as you may know, the infinite variety of cooked Japanese and Japanese-American foods goes way beyond teriyaki!

If your stomach is growling while you walk through Midtown on a late afternoon, you might stop by Café Zaiya. Like Yagura, the adjacent Japanese grocery, it features assorted cooked items. Today, the buffet included fried almond-encrusted shrimp, broiled whole pike mackerel, simmered autumn vegetables in a soy sauce, and batter-fried Chilean sea bass. The boxed meals of the day were una-don (eel over rice) and nikujaga (Japanese beef and potato stew). Some items on the regular menu are spicy cod roe spaghetti, tempura udon, and tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet). Try to save room for the intriguing desserts, which range from green tea madeleines to chestnut mousse to an man (steamed rice flour buns filled with sweet red bean jam)!

Café Zaiya is a bustling little place; if you would like to relax in more of a drawing-room ambience, head over to Ya Bowl. Mien Eto, the pleasant owner, told me that her intention with Ya Bowl was to open a place where people could actually relax in the middle of Times Square. She manages to achieve the impossible in a cozy room that recalls the charming cafés of the European-influenced Harajuku section of Tokyo.

As you can presume by its name, Ya Bowl specializes in one-bowl meals. On a recent visit I enjoyed the fresh water eel simmered in sweet soy sauce, garnished with shredded egg and pickled ginger. Also on the menu are a Korean barbecued beef bowl and a chicken cutlet curry. Ms. Eto raved about her desserts, but I had already eaten dessert before lunch that day (shame on me)!

As we come into cooler weather, I also enjoy inhaling a big bowl of steaming hot noodles at Soba-Ya, with toppings as diverse as sardines, fried tofu, mountain vegetables, and shrimp tempura. Across the street, Otafuku offers artery-clogging takoyaki (six chunks of fried dough with octopus) and okonomoyaki, a fried eggy pancake which is filled with seafood and cabbage, and then covered with bonito flakes and mayonnaise. Further downtown, there is the recently opened Win49, which compensates for its lack of seating (2 stools) with its varied assortment of tasty items. Among the delights here are many different bento boxes with fried cutlets and yakitori (Although this is a column about cooked Japanese foods, I must also note that Win49 offers a $6.50 chirashi-zushi (scattered sashimi over rice)!

In summary, you have many options besides teriyaki, so start eating!

Café Zaiya: 18 E. 41st St. (212) 779-0600. Ya Bowl: 125 W. 45th St. (212) 764-3017. Note: Ya Bowl will be closing at the end of July '03. Soba-Ya: 229 E. 9th St. (212) 533-6966. Otafuku: 236 E. 9th St. (212) 353-8503. Win49 (Closed as of 2006): 205 Allen St. (212) 353-9494.

Vegetarian Dim Sum House

This relative newcomer to Chinatown is decorated with illustrations of the Buddha. After finishing a large meal, I wondered if I resembled an incarnation of the fat, smiling god.

All edibles are strictly vegetarian, although you can also order various fruit milkshakes. I enjoyed a mango milkshake while I took in the formidably long menu. Braised "chicken" with lily flowers? Or sweet and sour "fish"? Finally I decided on the vegetarian mock shrimp dumplings, the hot and sour soup, and the lemon "chicken". The dumplings were gelatinous rice flour pockets stuffed with rice and chewy "shrimp". A very tasty and sour soup was served in a gigantic bowl, full of bits of red chili, tree ears, large chunks of tofu, and scallions. After polishing these appetizers off, I attempted to tackle the lemon "chicken" made of Chinese yams. The "chicken filet" was served in a pleasingly tart lemon sauce, but seemed to taste more of potato than chicken! But no matter; I left happily stuffed, feeling like I had at least contemplated nirvana.

Vegetarian Dim Sum House: 24 Pell St. (212) 577-7176.

Bakeries: Balthazar and Sullivan Street

Whoever says that man does not live by bread alone has never visited the Balthazar Bakery or the Sullivan Street Bakery (Note: The original location of Sullivan Street Bakery is now Grandaisy Bakery. The quality is still excellent.)

Just one bite of the pain au chocolat at Balthazar alone disproved this theory for me! But of course I didn't stop there. After admiring the various tarts, I ordered the unctuously rich chocolate cajeta (Mexican goat-milk caramel) tart, a buttery scone, and one of the best chocolate-chip walnut cookies I have ever tasted. A Brie sandwich was perfection: a chewy, butter-slathered baguette generously topped with Brie. Sun-dried tomatoes were a delightful accent in the pain bagnat, which also included the usual hard-boiled egg, black olives, lettuce and tuna. In another nice touch, the slices of fresh tuna were seared and crusted with black pepper.

You may wonder how I made it over the Sullivan Street loaded down with so many goodies! Well, I managed. At Sullivan Street, I tried the legendary tortino di cioccolato, basically a glorified (and glorious) brownie, as well as two different kinds of cheeseless pizza; potato and mushroom. In each case, the vegetables were very thinly sliced and redolent of olive oil and herbs. Sullivan Street also offers a wonderful crusty olive loaf.

Balthazar Bakery: 80 Spring St. (212) 965-1785. Sullivan Street Bakery: 73 Sullivan St. (212) 334-9435.

An Apple A Day...

According to WebMD, an apple a day indeed keeps the doctor away. All the more reason to visit Fauchon right now: the Park Avenue location is featuring a celebration of the fine fruit. Interspersed among the various goodies in the display are bits of apple-related trivia; for example, did you know that there are over 15,000 varieties of apples?

If you are an apple aficionado, here are some of the delights that Fauchon (Note: NYC store closed) has in store for you: Normandy cider vinegar, Pippin apple juice, green apple tea, apple bonbons, Golden Delicious apple preserves, apple compote, and sparkling apple quince juice.

If apples are not your cup of green apple tea, then make sure to try the macarons in chocolate, chocolate raspberry and pistachio. There are also pastries of all sorts, sandwiches, chocolates, pâtés de fruits, marzipans, and one of the most creative arrays of condiments that I have ever seen. The condiments include an entire shelf devoted to mustards in exotic flavors like cocoa, Roquefort, and violet. And don't miss the milk jams.

Fauchon: 442 Park Ave. (212) 308-5919.

Chocolate Overload

Yesterday, my internal compass pointed straight towards "chocolate". I was first led to Park Slope's Beso (CLOSED as of Dec. 2007), which served a sublime chocolate crema catalana. This huge bowl of dense cocoa mousse was accompanied by a hot, eggy cinnamon churro (fried donut). Powdered sugar drifted from the churro into the cool chocolate cream, and I swooned with pleasure between each bite.

A couple hours later, of course, this blissful memory had faded, and the next leg of my journey began. The aforementioned compass led me to the Teuscher Chocolates of Switzerland store at Rockefeller Center, where chocolates are prepared in Zürich and flown to New York every week. I admired the various truffles in flavors of orange, cocoa, almond, walnut, kirsch, and nougat. There were also dainty chocolates shaped like animals. My admiration soon surpassed the visual as I bit into a large chunk of dark chocolate marzipan.

Continuing northward towards the Upper East Side, I couldn't pass by Neuhaus without walking in. This Belgian chocolatier has been delighting patrons since 1857. I entered the shop under the pretext of buying a gift, but I found additional reasons to be there once inside! Among them, dark chocolate-covered orange peels: sunbursts of citrus flavor enrobed with some of the deepest, richest chocolate I have ever tasted, and crunchy cacao nib-studded dark chocolate squares. The truffle selection included a cognac buttercream covered with thin almond slices and a classic chocolate buttercream sprinkled with cocoa powder.

My compass does not lead me astray, wouldn't you agree?

Beso: 210 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 622-9894. Teuscher: 620 5th Ave., Rockefeller Center. (212) 246-4416. Neuhaus: 922 Madison Ave. (212) 861-2800.

Brunch at Max Court (Closed)

You may wonder, “Is it still possible to get a satisfying brunch in Brooklyn for $4.95?” I must inform you that the answer is a resounding yes!

Yesterday, a friend and I were hungry and hot, walking around Carroll Gardens. We weren’t having any luck finding brunch; Panino’teca 275 was inexplicably closed, and Copper was being renovated. But I knew that an oasis of yumminess was right around the corner, so I smiled knowingly when my friend wondered if our final destination would be worth the journey.

Enter Max Court, the charming restaurant that seems as though it were your Italian best friend’s apartment. Our host showed us to a lovely garden festooned with Danesi parasols. Although the temperature was in the 90s, several fans cooled things off in the garden.

My friend gasped at the low prices on the menu. A frittata of potato and white onion went for $5.95, while our choice, the mozzarella in carozza, cost only $4.95. The rich egg toast, oozing with melted mozzarella, was accompanied by a large portion of rosemary-roasted potatoes and a big mesclun salad with plum tomatoes. Other items on the brunch menu included eggs scrambled with pancetta, mozzarella and parmigiano, and uova ripiene, hard-boiled eggs stuffed with sardines, olives, capers and mustard.

We lingered enjoyably over our cappuccino and tiramisú, as no one rushed us.

(My friend remarked that Rosewater charged twice as much for brunch while delivering half the amount of food. And recently, I have found the service at Rosewater particularly inhospitable, especially when I am dining alone. So for a tranquil, equally tasty Sunday brunch, I recommend going the extra mile to Max Court!)

Max Court: 395 Court St., Brooklyn. (718) 596-9797. Delicious brunch available Sat.-Sun. 11-4.

Pessimists Eat Pickles

An intriguing article just made me aware of the perfectionism of Doritos eaters and the joie de vivre of those who prefer vanilla ice cream. What is your food personality?

Brunch at the Palace Hotel (and Japanese Treats)

My mother remarked that in New York City, some of the finest meals can be enjoyed at hotel restaurants. So, we decided to brunch at Istana in the Palace Hotel. (Le Cirque 2000 can also be found at this location.)

Although not cheap, the prix fixe breakfast includes an all-you-can-eat dessert bar. I greatly enjoyed my plate of smoked salmon, decorated with a "blossom" of brioche toast points. The "pistil" of the flower was a dollop of red pepper crème fraîche topped with a small portion of osetra caviar. Also satisfying was a tomato scallion omelette served with a watercress salad and fried oysters. The star of the show, however, was the dessert buffet. All desserts are baked on the premises; today the array of sweets included a butterscotch pudding, two types of chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, fig tart, lemon-lime meringue pie, black bottom crème brûlée, fruits in Grand Marnier with whipped cream, and petits fours. Many desserts were adorned with summer fruits; strawberries, raspberries and blueberries.

I decided that I needed a little exercise after this indulgence, so I strolled over to Minamoto Kitchoan, the excellent Japanese bakery. (A few days ago, I was surprised to see a branch of this delightful shop on Piccadilly in London.) Many sweets are seasonal; right now, I can recommend the imo kintsuba, sweet potato fudge. There is also a hakuto jelly, which is like the freshest essence of a summer peach. I rounded out my purchase with a couple tsuya, pancakes filled with sweet red bean paste. In London's Kitchoan, you can sit down and enjoy afternoon green tea with your treat; I hope that the New York store eventually offers a table for this activity, although I am not optimistic (we just don't know how to relax in this town).

I was so full after all of this that I had no room left to sample some acarajé (bean fritters) or cachaça (Brazilian sugar cane liquor) at the 18th Annual Brazilian Day Festival on 6th Avenue. I guess I'll have to wait until next year.

Palace Hotel: 455 Madison Ave. (800) NY-PALACE. Minamoto Kitchoan: 608 Fifth Ave. (212) 489-3747.

Panino'teca 275

I believe that I experienced the perfect brunch this morning. I had no idea that such a simple combination of ingredients would result in such a delicious synergy.

Before I go into detail, let me explain that Panino'teca is a casual Italian sandwich restaurant on the order of 'ino, but with more substantial portions. They offer a variety of bruschetta, panini and tramezzini, as well as a small but well-selected cheese menu divided into "soft/young", "hard/aged" and "fresh".

Being that it was Saturday, brunch was being offered, so I went with the brunch special: scrambled egg bruschetta. This was not the tiny square of egg-drenched toast that one finds at 'ino. It was a huge mound of creamy scrambled eggs and goat cheese, studded with spicy scallions and sweet Roma tomatoes, redolent of freshly ground black pepper. The whole glorious mess was served over a thick slice of toasted ciabatta. In short: heaven.

Panino'teca: 275 Smith St., Brooklyn. (718) 237-2728.

Grilled Cheese CLOSED AS OF 1/06 (and Chocolate Cake)

After the sophistication of the previous sushi meal, I craved something a little more infantile. What pleasure is more primeval than that of a grilled cheese sandwich?

And what is the most enticing aspect of a grilled cheese sandwich? The silky texture of the hot melted cheese? The crunchy toast? Or the contrast between the luxuriously soft cheese and the toast? These are questions I pondered as my teeth sunk into the "3-Cheese" at Grilled Cheese on the Lower East Side. My sandwich consisted of a heavenly blend of Monterey Jack, cheddar and Swiss melted over grilled onions, roasted garlic, mushrooms and red peppers. I was also quite satisfied with the fresh 7-grain bread (you can also order your sandwich on a baguette or white toast). The folks at Grilled Cheese are in the process of changing their menu, but as of yesterday, they also featured a “Grilled Motzy” (mozzarella with pesto) and several options for those of you who prefer your grilled cheese with a slice of ham.

My inner child then asked, “Can I have some dessert?” She asked nicely, so I took a hike up 1st Ave. to Tarallucci e Vino and had myself a nice slice of chocolate cake. Dense with ground almonds and covered with powdered sugar, it was an adult solution to a juvenile dilemma.

Grilled Cheese: 168 Ludlow St. (212) 982-6600.

Tomoe

While walking down Thompson towards Houston Street, you might wonder if a celebrity is nearby; a long line of people stretches down the sidewalk. But in New York, people are more impressed by great sushi than celebrity status, and great sushi is exactly what you will find at Tomoe.

First, you must wait. You may longingly peer at the contented diners inside or peruse the list of daily specials. If you are ahead in the line, you may even be asked by the hungry person behind you to share your table with him. That is exactly what happened to yours truly yesterday evening; desperate hunger apparently overtook the New York reserve of the gentleman behind me, and he requested to sit at my table. Not wanting me to get the wrong idea, he nervously promised to read during dinner instead of making conversation. Once he saw that I was not going to ask him out or steal his appetizer, he overcame his taciturnity and offered that he was about to meet his Japanese fiancée’s parents for the first time. He didn’t speak very much Japanese, but he ordered two natto maki, so I think his meeting will go just fine. (Natto is a Japanese fermented soybean paste that I enjoy very much, but which many people find objectionable.)

But enough about the social circumstances of dinner, and on to the contents! I decided to forgo all of the delicious appetizers of the day (among them, grilled sea bass and spicy tuna tartare) and settled on my old standby: the sushi/sashimi combination. The preceding miso soup tasted satisfyingly of smoky bonito flakes, and the green tea was strong and grassy. The main course was a cornucopia of glistening salmon, tuna, yellowtail, sweet shrimp, fluke, octopus, squid, mackerel, flying fish roe and clam. Scallions decorated a dollop of tuna tartare, seaweed tumbled out from under a piece of sashimi, and three slices of spicy tuna roll completed the assortment which graced my wooden tray. It was a garden of marine delights.

One of my pet peeves about some Japanese restaurants is the dessert selection: ice cream with red beans, or red beans with ice cream. In contrast, Tomoe offers unique treats such as a tantalizing green tea mousse. Alas, I was too full. (But I still went over to The Yoghurt Place afterwards to buy a fig apricot whole-milk yogurt and apricot-almond granola for later munchies.)

Tomoe: 172 Thompson St. (212) 777-9346.

Indian Food: Good and Bad

Good Indian food does not have to be expensive. In fact, last night I had a delicious snack of "Calcutta street food" for $2.50. Therefore, one of the great mysteries of New York is the existence of so many bad Indian restaurants.

As you know, my journal largely consists of raves; I don’t like to gratuitously bash an eatery. However, once in while an experience arises which is so awful that I feel compelled to write about it. Since I don’t like to dwell on the negative, I will end this review on a positive note with a glowing recommendation for Kati Roll Company.

Let me begin by explaining that 7th Avenue, the main drag in Park Slope, Brooklyn, is notorious for mediocre and expensive restaurants. A restaurant may open with lofty aspirations but will soon raise prices while reducing the quality of the food (Dizzy’s and Sotto Voce come to mind).

Therefore, I had hopes that Amin, the latest addition (or subtraction, depending on how one looks at it) to 7th Avenue would be at least mediocre. Even these modest hopes of mine were dashed. Mango lassi was sour as a pickle, while cucumber raita was as sugary as rice pudding. Mango chutney hadn't a hint of spice; it tasted like something you'd serve over pancakes, and saag paneer was a puddle of green baby food almost devoid of chunks of cheese. Papadum were ordered but did not arrive (maybe I should be thankful). Also, there were about 10 waiters who could not organize themselves; service was extremely slow even though the restaurant was only half full. After such an unappetizing meal, it seemed unfair to me that Amin charged extra for rice, raita and chutney.

For less than the price of the condiments at Amin, you can satisfy your taste buds at the Kati Roll Company. Kati serves cheap and delicious Calcutta snacks, mostly paratha (thin Indian pancakes) filled with tasty, exotic fillings. My $2.50 unda sandwich was a fresh, piping hot paratha, bursting at the seams with red onion, egg, cilantro sauce and spices. It only lasted until I got to Houston Street. (I would have gone back for another but my friends and I were very tired from laughing while watching Darrell Hammond at the Comedy Cellar, and besides, one of us needed to order some chestnut gelato at Caffé Dante.)

Kati Roll Company: 99 MacDougal St. (212) 420-6517.

University of Chocolate

It's almost time for the school year to begin! I think it would be very pleasant to matriculate at the University of Chocolate.

The Yoghurt Place (and a small note about 'ino)

We were still hungry after our brunch at 'ino, which lived up to its diminutive name in both portion size and the size of the room (the latter accounted for the constant game of musical chairs that the waitress was directing: "Can you move to this table? OK, now can you two move over to this table so that these three can move over here?"). After kiddie portions of frustratingly tasty truffled egg toast, roasted vegetable panino and fresh ricotta bruschetta, we embarked on the next stage of our pursuit of fullness.

Our journey took us to The Yoghurt Place. It was only about 2:30 p.m. and Vea, the owner, sadly informed us that she was all out of whole-milk yogurt, and for that matter, napkins. Looking around the small store with trays of pastries on every flat surface, we knew we would still not be disappointed. First we set our sights on the honeyed pistachio baklava, sweet biscuits stuffed with dried fruit, and spinach pie full of tangy feta. Then it was time for the incredibly rich low-fat yogurt with a choice of three toppings (we decided on the apricot fig; Vea also offered a melon and a sour cherry topping). Each spoonful was a bite of Mediterranean heaven! I myself always hated yogurt as a child but am now a convert. Thanks, Vea!

'ino: 21 Bedford St. (212) 989-5769. The Yoghurt Place II: 71 Sullivan St. (212) 219-3500.

Beppe

What is your vision of heaven? Mine is a place where there are always fresh, sun-kissed tomatoes and strawberries. I think I may have found a piece of heaven in Beppe, a Tuscan restaurant in Gramercy Park. Our waiter informed us that Beppe owns a farm in upstate New York. That would explain the astonishing intensity of the tomatoes in the pappa (tomato bread soup with basil and pecorino), pepolino (fresh flat pillows of pasta in a tomato sauce), and the romaine, fennel and tomato salad that accompanied my orata (white-fleshed Mediterranean fish roasted with garlic cloves, fresh oregano and lemon).

Other high points of the evening included an rich onion soup topped with a thick layer of Parmigiano under which sat a poached egg, and a creative presentation of New York strip steak: a mosaic of thinly sliced red meat accented with a green herb sauce. We also made sure to order the Tuscan fried potatoes. Although I was slightly bemused by the large hunk of herbs on top, I found the fries crispy and satisfyingly salty.

And now it was time for my favorite part of the evening: dessert. The dessert decision was left to me and I rose to the occasion, ordering the crespelle. A salad of farm-raised strawberries made its appearance alongside two gossamer crepes filled with sweet ricotta and decorated with plumes of chocolate syrup. My brother happened to be in the neighborhood and stopped by our table. During his brief visit, he proceeded to wipe out much of our dessert, so we gladly ordered another helping.

I will end by saying that Beppe serves a terrific extra-strong cappuccino. The caffeine is helping me write this column.

Beppe: 45 E. 22nd St. (212) 982-8422.

Il Gelatone

I really wanted to like Uncle Louis G's (rapidly proliferating Italian ice/gelato chain). It is obvious that many others do, judging from the lines of customers sweating in the summer heat. But when I ordered a "spumoni" last night, I was unceremoniously presented with a cup of three colors of Play-Doh. Right then and there, I decided that I had to get serious about my gelato craving.

And so, I made my way to Il Gelatone: oasis of authentic gelato and sorbetto. Chocolate hazelnut gelato was assertively cocoa-y, with satisfying chunks of nut. Tiramisu gelato was milder and tasted of the requisite cocoa and mascarpone. Hazelnut gelato was subtly nutty and creamy, and the flavor of fig shone through clearly in the light lavender fig gelato. Sorbetti were offered in fruit flavors such as mango and strawberry. I was too engrossed in the more caloric offerings, but I promise to visit again to report on the more virtuous sorbetti. Or, if you invite me to accompany you, I will just take a bit of yours while I order the caramel gelato.

Il Gelatone: 397 3rd Ave. (212) 481-2093.

Wanted: Professional Chocoholic

Are you bored with your job? Then perhaps you might consider applying for this one.

Just Rugelach (Part 2)

I have eaten at several restaurants in the past few days, but what really stands out in my mind is my second trip to Just Rugelach. I braved 98-degree heat to arrive at that tent of paradise, my goal being to sample some new treats.

Today I focused on the savory end of the starch spectrum. A vegetable tart was a small marvel of roasted tomatoes, caramelized onions, black olives and rosemary sprigs, all embedded in a luscious pate brisée. There were about seven kinds of knishes, including spinach feta; I chose the kasha and roasted onion. This was not one of those frozen hockey pucks that you ordinarily find at most New York delis. The onions melted in my mouth, the kasha filling was moist and tasty, the fresh outer dough was buttery. You will want to bring a jar of Gulden’s mustard with you, and be careful…the filling is so generous that it starts to tumble out when you take a bite.

Flaky buttermilk biscuits were three for a dollar, and a huge block of moist blueberry cornbread cost me only $2.

Just Rugelach: (212) 244-1256.

Chocosphere

The first shipment of chocolate to Europe came from Oaxaca, Mexico in 1502. Five centuries later, you can find the best European chocolates at Chocosphere, a small company in Portland, Oregon. They carry my favorites: Michel Cluizel, Callebaut, and Valrhona. Michel Cluizel has the distinction of creating the milk chocolate bar with the highest cocoa content: 50%. (Most milk chocolate bars contain around 33%.)

I must admit, I am anxiously counting the days until November 15, when The Chocolate Show returns to New York! Last year I wandered from vendor to vendor in a chocolate-addled stupor, munching on warm Valrhona orange-chocolate brownies and Cemoi truffles and sipping Jacques Torres spicy cocoa and Vermeer Dutch Chocolate liqueur. But until November, I will be satisfied with Chocosphere.

Gramercy Tavern

In the news yesterday, I read that a group of New Yorkers (who else) is suing McDonald's, claiming that they became addicted to the food. Meanwhile, the food at Gramercy Tavern is so addictive that I fear this restaurant will fall victim to a similar lawsuit. (Incidentally, Gramercy Tavern's pastry chef is resigning in order to accept a position at Pret, the sandwich chain partly owned by McDonald's. Judging from the addictive nature of the pastries at Gramercy Tavern, she will be a good fit for her new job.)

The overarching feeling at Gramercy Tavern is one of warmth and a motherly attention to detail. Baskets of bright sunflowers greeted us at the front door, and when we were about to leave, our waiter arrived with individually-wrapped complementary coffee cakes. Now let me tell you about what happened in between.

Taking in the rustic, yet elegant ambience of the mahogany-accented dining room, we were pleased to notice that the zaftig couple next to us hadn’t left a molecule on their plate (always a good sign).

An amuse-bouche of pasta salad with a crispy parmesan tuile was duly inhaled by us. Then it was time for appetizers: hamachi with lemon vinaigrette and roasted beets, and spice-roasted lobster with green tomato chutney and bay leaf. The hamachi was four flavorful hunks of yellowtail sashimi garnished with lemon and fringed by a salad of microgreens, dill, and beets. The lobster was spicy and sweet.

My companion ordered the sirloin with roasted mushrooms, bacon and cranberry beans, which arrived looking like a free-form sculpture of a rose, with the red strips of meat aligned in a circular pattern. After munching on the crispy rectangle of salmon skin that topped my meal, I savored my two pieces of salt-baked salmon with chanterelle mushrooms and tender sugar-snap peas.

Not one scrap left of all that. Now it was time to sample from the large cheese menu. I should have taken a page from the zaftig couple’s book and allowed Mike, our astonishingly knowledgeable waiter, to choose our cheese! He arrived at the couple’s table with a large wooden block covered with wedges of about 20 kinds of cheese and lovingly described his favorites.

Notwithstanding our lack of his expertise, we still did well in the cheese department. Mike nodded approvingly as I decided on a Sottocenere al Tartufo (mild, sweet raw cow-milk cheese with truffles). I supplemented the Sottocenere with a Canestrato (salty, firm sheep-milk cheese akin to Romano) and a Humboldt Fog aged goat cheese. The cheese arrived with a plate of breads which we were too full to eat (shame on us!).

Although we were full by now, there was no way we were going to skip dessert. How were we to know that one dessert would become four?

A beaming waiter arrived with a dessert amuse-bouche: small dishes of silken panna cotta under a film of red wine gelee, topped with strawberry sorbet. Although I was disappointed to discover that the warm chocolate soufflé with black mint ice cream had just disappeared from the menu, I was placated with a warm chocolate tart served in an art deco configuration with a small chocolate malted and chocolate sorbet. My companion was very happy with his chocolate caramel tart with caramel ice cream. I decided that I could not pass up the special press-pot coffee roasted with cacao nibs and spices… truly some of the best coffee I've ever experienced!

We were about to explode when a plate of chocolate hazelnut and lemon meringue petit fours arrived. Yes, we ate the entire contents of the plate. Now we were beginning to feel like the protagonist in that Monty Python skit…

…when the aforementioned coffee cakes arrived. We had to draw the line somewhere, so I will be eating the coffee cake today: after I go to the gym!

Gramercy Tavern: 42 E. 20th St. (212) 477-0777.

Just Rugelach

I was trying to save my appetite for tonight’s dinner at Gramercy Tavern (more about that later) when I spotted the Just Rugelach tent at the Bowling Green Farmer’s Market. As if by some strange force I was sucked into the tent, only able to escape after three kinds of rugelach had been deposited into my bag (apricot, raspberry and chocolate). Mmmm! Margaret Palca is going to have a run for her money! The flaky, buttery exteriors of these rugelach are a perfect foil for the dense, intensely sweet fillings. And the name of this business is misleading; it’s not “just” rugelach that’s the attraction here. It’s apricot soda bread, cornmeal raisin biscotti, blueberry babka…the list goes on and on. The customer ahead of me was having a very difficult time deciding what she wanted, so I had ample chance to make a mental catalogue of the offerings!

Just Rugelach: (212) 244-1256.

Bistro St. Mark's (Closed as of 2005)

We needed comfort tonight. I had a raging sore throat and my friend missed her niece, who was away at summer camp. Jessica, the bartender, supplied my friend with a complementary glass of Pinot Grigio, and Paula, our waitress, brought over a hot toddy for me. Thus soothed, we attempted to make some difficult choices. Shell steak with garlic butter? Thyme-seared tuna with soy-ginger sauce?

We decided to begin with the goat cheese salad with grape tomatoes. Cool oval slices of tart goat cheese topped a bed of greens lightly tossed with vinaigrette. The sweet tomatoes again made their appearance in the caramelized scallop dish I ordered. Browned scallops framed a mound of linguine in a subtle tomato coriander sauce with shiitake mushrooms and garlic cloves. Although I enjoyed my meal, my fork found its way over to my friend's plate and had difficulty returning to my own. My friend had the monkfish medallions in a sauce of dense creamed spinach punctuated by sweet nuggets of fresh corn. The accompanying plate of mashed potatoes seemed almost superfluous.

Dessert was a slightly easier decision, because I saw the words "warm" and "chocolate" in the same description. The popular chocolate cake with a molten center arrived with a side of pistachio ice cream which I ignored, proceeding to deflate the cake to watch the gooey melted fudge pour out. I skillfully emptied the cake of its contents, having much practice in this endeavor.

Sore throats heal, nieces come back from summer camp, and warm chocolate cake is eternal.

Bistro St. Mark's: 76 St. Mark's Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 857-8600.

Salli's Sweet Tooth

Having finished the last chocolate éclair from Payard, I set about exploring the famed sweet shops of Columbia Heights, Brooklyn. Once you cross the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway, you will find quite a few goodies in this rapidly transitioning neighborhood.

If you are disappointed with the famed Junior's (as I am), you will set upon Helen's Fabulous Cheesecake (Note: Closed as of Dec. 2004) like a pack of wolves. I bought a thick slice of sweet, buttery caramel cheesecake with a graham cracker crust. Also on display were several kinds of fresh-baked scones in flavors like chocolate hazelnut. It should be noted that Alma, the nearby Mexican restaurant, lists Helen's coconut cheesecake on the menu.

I remembered seeing a van emblazoned with the logo Margaret Palca Bakes, and I decided to follow the driver to his lair on Columbia Street. Margaret Palca Bakes is a small, unassuming bakery/deli across from a used-car lot, which bills itself as baking the best cinnamon rugelach in New York. They also do a mean raspberry brownie and chocolate-chip coconut bar! The cashier and I fell into a discussion about apartments in the area, and he mourned the astronomical rise in rents. I nodded sympathetically, but I thought to myself: Doesn't he realize that people want to live right next to his raspberry brownies?

As usual, Ferdinando's Italian Restaurant was closed, so I crossed the bridge to Cobble Hill and stopped off at Mazzola Bakery. Today's items on the agenda were sfogliatelli; flaky pastries filled with cream and nuggets of candied orange peel, and hazelnut biscotti. The biscotti at Mazzola are not formed in the traditional dipping shape, but they are far superior to the cakey spears you find at most cafés!

Helen's Fabulous Cheesecake: 126 Union St., Brooklyn. Margaret Palca Bakes: 193 Columbia St., Brooklyn. (718) 802-9771. Mazzola Bakery: 192 Union St., Brooklyn. (718) 643-1719.

My Kingdom for a Brie Sandwich

On July 14, 1789, crowds of Parisians captured the Bastille. On July 14, 2002, crowds of hungry New Yorkers captured East 60th St.!

I was taking a walk on the Upper East Side this morning, when purely by chance, I spied the arc of red, white, and blue balloons that advertises a Bastille Day street fair. Fortunately, I arrived early, before the hot sun had a chance to melt the pastries.

If you are a frequent visitor to New York City street fairs, then you will be familiar with the sugary "fruit" shakes, sodden Hershey syrup crepes, and Potato Kings that often mar them. Interspersed among these scourges today were some of the finest French restaurants and bakeries, serving their wares for just a few dollars.

Payard Pâtisserie offered éclairs filled with either coffee or chocolate pastry cream, fresh peach tarts, and chocolate-covered marzipan confections topped with pine nuts. I also bought a cookie that was so chocolatey it was almost black. "It's good for you, too," smiled the cashier. "You've got to be kidding," I said, then noticed that the cookies were advertised as being butterless and flourless. When I asked how on earth they could be so moist, the cashier replied, "Egg whites." All the better to eat another!

I surveyed the other vendors: D'Artagnan ("The Duck Stops Here"), purveyor of foie gras, Les Trois Petits Cochons (pâtés), Brooklyn's own Kino, offering lamb sausage sandwiches and a strange kombu seaweed pasta, and Les Halles with a variety of grilled meat sandwiches. Pigalle served wonderful croissants, palmiers, and tartes d'oignon.

Between Madison and 5th Avenues, I saw a giant floating Brie in the sky. Upon closer inspection, it was obviously a balloon, but I could not pass up the Président Brie baguette sandwich that it advertised. I would gladly storm any fortress for that combination of chewy baguette and creamy soft cheese!

Payard: 1032 Lexington Ave. (212) 717-5252. D’Artagnan: 1-800-DAR-TAGN. Les Trois Petits Cochons: 1-800-LES-PATES. Kino: One Main St., Brooklyn. (718) 243-9815. Les Halles: 411 Park Ave. South. (212) 679-4111. Pigalle: 790 8th Ave. (212) 489-2233.

Give Peas A Chance?

Vegetables are on my mind today. Perhaps it's because of this week's Time Magazine article on vegetarianism. Or maybe it's because I read the following in The Week:

"Eat vegetables and stay out of jail. British researchers have found that improving the diet of juvenile prisoners slashed the number of offenses they subsequently committed by more than a quarter. The greatest reduction was in violent offenses, which fell by 40 percent. Researchers at the University of Surrey studied 230 inmates between 18 and 21. 'Improved nutrition is a cheap and effective way to cut crime,' suggests lead study author Bernard Gesch."

New Yorkers have recently benefited from a great decrease in crime. Some may argue that this is due to our former mayor, Giuliani. But could it be that perhaps Urban Organic is growing in popularity? Urban Organic is a delivery service that brings fresh fruits and vegetables to your doorstep every week. Today, I started off my morning with their juicy black plums, and I'm now feeling more at peace with the world.

Are you feeling violent today? Eat a carrot!

Cheese, Glorious Cheese

According to this article, the average American ate more than 30 pounds of cheese last year! I am sure I influenced that figure with my cheese consumption alone. (I influenced my figure too!)

How does one satisfy these cravings the Salli Vates way?

Well, you could start your day in Little Italy by sampling the smoked fresh mozzarella at Alleva Dairy (188 Grand St., Little Italy. 212-226-7990). Then make your way to Ninth Avenue Cheese at Grand Central Market (212-370-4136), which offers a delightful selection of domestic and imported cheeses. Of particular interest to me one day was a Gjetost (a caramelized goat cheese from Norway with an intriguingly complex flavor). Norwegian mariners traditionally took this with them on long voyages, so you might want to bring some along on your strenuous outing today. I also fell head over heels for a Fromage D’Affinois Brie. There is a good selection of Spanish cheeses like Mahón and Cabrales, and many kinds of fresh goat cheese.

(Many are partial to Murray’s Cheese Shop in the Village. Although I appreciate the friendly and knowledgeable staff, I have found that their cheeses are not adequately sheltered from the elements, which include buzzing flies!)

Next, have lunch at Artisanal (2 Park Ave. @ E. 32 St. 212-725-8585). Don’t skip the fingerling potato, melted raclette and coarse salt appetizer. Artisanal lovingly tends to hundreds of cheeses in their specially built “cheese cave”.

You could then meet one of New York's most passionate advocates of raw milk cheese at Tuller (Note: This store was sold in 2007, now renamed Cobblestone Foods. There is still a wonderful cheese selection.) (199 Court St., Brooklyn. 718-222-1661). When I asked Robert Tuller which cheeses were made of raw milk, he answered, “Which aren’t?” I tasted a spicy Berger Plat and a raw milk Brie. I was also fascinated with a chevre with herbs and violets, but I will have to sample that on my next visit.

If you’d like to dine on cheese as a main course, you could try the richest dish known to mankind: paneer sautéed with ghee in a spicy tomato cream sauce, at Pongal (110 Lexington Ave. 212-696-9458), a vegetarian Indian restaurant. You probably won’t need to eat for another week, but why don’t you finish things off with a slice of ricotta cheesecake at Ferrara Bakery and Café (195 Grand St. 212-226-6150).

As a final note, I wanted to let you know that while I am writing this, I am munching on “Les Crêperolles de Pont-Aven, Fourrées au Roquefort”; small flaky tube-shaped crackers filled with creamy Roquefort cheese. Where did I buy them? Jacques Torres Chocolate Factory, a subject that merits its own journal entry.

A Coffee Rant

Coffee is essential to the proper functioning of most New Yorkers. Although there is a Starbucks on just about every corner, I agree with the sentiments of Dr. Ernesto “Papa Bean” Illy:

"Many Americans believe the darker you roast the coffee bean, the richer and better it is. But at a certain point, all you're producing is bitterness. It's like having a good piece of meat and cooking it too long. After a good cup of espresso your tongue should be colored. The taste should persist for 30 minutes. But if it's bad, it's torture."

During this hot summer, I have often found myself searching out a big cup of iced coffee. I was therefore highly intrigued by this shocking exposé of iced coffee price inflation!

What is the discerning coffee addict to do? One alternative is to buy one’s own beans. D'Amico Foods (718-875-5403) is a well-known Brooklyn coffee retailer with a wide selection. Illy coffee can be found at almost any New York supermarket. Also dear to my heart is the Montréal coffee paradise Cafemania. You can order a smooth Parisien blend or a spicy Moka Java Noir from their Web site. Five different grinds are available.

To make a perfect espresso or cappuccino every time, I employ the Saeco Vienna Deluxe. This amazing machine grinds, tamps, and creates a wonderful crema-topped espresso, then disposes of the coffee grounds. (If only I could get it to do my laundry!)

Time for a coffee break.

Uncle George's

There were families milling about the front entrance, but only five minutes went by before we were seated. Our eyes passed over the rows of whole chickens roasting on a rotisserie. My partner remarked on the crowded room and the plain decor, feeling that Uncle George's must be serious about good Greek food.

We were not disappointed. I began with the poikilia, an assortment of popular Greek dips: tzatziki (yogurt cucumber with a nice kick of garlic), taramosalata (carp roe), and skordalia (very garlicky mashed potato). My partner ordered a Greek salad topped with a big white block of feta and scrumptious kalamata olives.

They were out of the smelts so I ordered the baby smelts; tiny flavorful whole fish fried in a light batter. My partner ordered more conservatively but was satisfied with his tender filet of sole. Other fish on the menu include porgy, pink snapper, and red mullet. Our only gripe with Uncle George's is that no coffee is served. But we truly ate enough to say "uncle"!

Uncle George's: 33-19 Broadway, Astoria. (718) 626-0593.

Pumpkin's Organic Market

A recent visitor to this site inquired about where Salli shops for food when she's not sampling the restaurants of New York! So I am pleased to inform you of a recent discovery: Pumpkin's Organic Market. Pumpkin's, only open since May, aims to be your little piece of Vermont in Brooklyn. A wooden wheelbarrow at the entrance overflows with fresh produce. Christina, the owner, has created a homey environment in which to house her delicious organic foods.

I proceeded to load up my shopping basket with, among other things: Food For Thought Organic Jam (two flavors: Strawberry Basil and Blueberry Lavender), Vermont Pure Maple Butter Walnut Fudge (ummmmm), and spelt crackers. There is a small but tantalizing selection of Vermont cheeses, many kinds of olive oil and sea salt, Yu rice beverages in several flavors, vegan cookies, even organic lollipops. Strong organic coffee is brewed until noon.

Pumpkin's Organic Market: 13th St. & 8th Ave, Brooklyn. (718) 499-8539.

Tamari Japanese Restaurant and Sake Bar (CLOSED AS OF 6/09)

Good Japanese food is almost impossible to find in Brooklyn. Although there are exceptions (Geido comes to mind), the rule is often: tea and soup that taste like hot water; oversized, gristly slabs of sushi; and tough chicken teriyaki in a sickly-sweet brown sauce. That is why we were very pleased to discover Tamari, a tiny Japanese restaurant with a large sake selection.

On the waitress’s recommendation, we sampled the chilled Kaori sake (very smooth). Our appetizer was the hiya yakko, chilled tofu with ginger, scallion and dried bonito. We then tried the salmon donburi, topped with glistening pearls of salmon roe. When the sushi order arrived, it was artfully presented with mitsuba leaves adorning the plate. It included two pieces each of tuna, fresh and smoked salmon, yellowtail, whitefish, eel and one piece of crabmeat. Everything was fresh and of good quality.

Not wanting to finish the meal with the usual green tea ice cream, we ordered the shiratama zenzai, a bowl of sweet red beans with chunks of pineapple and warmed mochi. The entire meal for two came out to less than $40.

Tamari: 201 5th Avenue, Brooklyn. (718) 230-5636.

Grimaldi's Pizza and The Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory

Last night's culinary adventure was a trip to Grimaldi's Pizza and The Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, both located by the river in Brooklyn. If you haven't been to Grimaldi's, let me tempt you: the thin-crusted pizza is topped with fresh mozzarella, not the shredded Velveeta that you find at so many Brooklyn pizzerias. Our favorite toppings are the sweet roasted red peppers (fresh, not canned) and the salty whole black olives (no tinny sliced olives here)!

We abstained from dessert (the usual suspects: tortoni, spumoni and cannoli) in order to visit the now-legendary Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, which has only been open since September 2001. Various neighbors are protesting the existence of the Factory, so if you want to support good ice cream, sign the petition. We already lost Pete's, open for 25 years, to a landlord who raised the rent by 75%; the Factory is a good alternative (although I miss the brownies at Pete's!).

The Factory is close to my heart because it uses Michel Cluizel Belgian chocolate in the hot fudge. So I went all out for the creamy chocolate chunk ice cream (HUGE dark chocolate chunks) with hot fudge and whipped cream! My partner chose the strawberry ice cream, a little milky and sweet for my taste. We will try the peaches and cream next time, as well as toppings like toasted almonds and caramel.

Grimaldi's: 19 Old Fulton St., Brooklyn. (718) 858-4300. Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory: 2 Old Fulton St., Brooklyn. (718) 246-3963.